Two new wrinkle-fighting systems hit the market in March, 2010: ROC Brilliance with E-PULSE and Neutrogena Clinical with ION2COMPLEX Technology. Each is a kit consisting of a serum containing zinc and copper cations (atoms that have lost electrons and thus carry a positive charge) and a separate activating cream, which is supposed to help the ions generate a gentle microcurrent of electricity over the skin.
It is implied, though not directly stated, that the increase in the skin’s bioelectrical system could stimulate collagen and elastin growth by aiding in communication between cells.
Using Microcurrents To Look Younger
Microcurrent facials and handheld devices such as the popular NuFace have been around for years, probably because they actually do minimize fine lines on the face. They do so by possibly stimulating protein regeneration in the skin’s support structure, and also by irritating the face a bit, causing very mild swelling that plumps up wrinkles nicely. They can also break capillaries, however, so should be avoided by those with thin or sensitive skin.
Topical Creams and Serums to Stimulate Skin Repair
The new serum-cream systems do not generate enough current to have the same effect as a handheld device; just as an at-home device is not as effective as a microcurrent facial at a salon, where the machine’s resistance can be varied as necessary and the skill of the aesthetician plays a big role in final results.
Young skin uses the body’s innate electrical signaling system to repair itself; older skin does begin to lose this ability. However, simply adding more ionic conductors to the skin’s surface will not necessarily return the body’s bioelectric systems to its former youthful state. Dissolving table salt in water produces loads of ions, but smearing the resulting solution over facial skin won’t do a thing for wrinkles or sagging.
Strangely, ROC advises consumers who run out of the activating cream or the zinc/copper serum to simply continue using the other component by itself, or to use another ROC moisturizer with the serum. So the “boosting complex” in the “recharging crème” isn’t really necessary? Aren’t the zinc and copper ions in the serum supposed to conduct the current?
Consumers need to think about these questions before plunking down forty or fifty dollars in hopes of discovering an electrically-charged fountain of youth.
There Are Many Different Factors That Cause Skin Aging
Even if topically-applied ions could stimulate the growth of collagen and elastin, the older face also suffers depletion of fat deposits, bone cells, and muscle support. Dermatologists can fight fat loss with injections, and plastic surgeons can tighten muscle and replace bone with implants. An electric current cannot replace or imitate the often amazing effects of these more invasive techniques.
The ingredient list of both systems prove them to be excellent silky moisturizers, which will certainly make the skin healthier and smooth superficial lines.
The Neutrogena Activating Cream for daytime is a super blend of broad-spectrum sunscreens, which will prevent sun damage and future lines. The eye activating cream contains glycolic acid, an excellent exfoliating agent and wrinkle-smoother. Consumers shouldn’t expect too much from the electricity gimmick, though.
Readers of this article may also enjoy “Facial Exercises and Facial Toning Devices” in Suite 101’s Home & Style section.
Sources
- Begoun, Paula & Barron, Bryan, Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, 7th edition, Beginning Press, 2008.
- “Neutrogena Clinical – Does It Work?” The Goods, March 4, 2010.
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