Many U.S. consumers believe that the FDA stringently regulates the cosmetic industry. Nothing could be further from the truth. Unfortunately, the FDA is currently underfunded, overworked, and labors under an outdated regulatory framework often based on scientific data from decades long past. State law has attempted to “pick up the slack,” but this effort has not been completely successful.
Consumers need to be aware of possible links between certain cosmetic ingredients and health problems. Then they may decide for themselves whether the benefits of a particular product containing such ingredients truly outweigh the risk it might pose.
Dark Hair Dyes and Cancer
Coal tar dyes, which are also known as aniline dyes, raise serious concerns. Pure coal tar is definitely linked with increased risks of bladder cancer, and may increase the risk of developing non-Hodgkins lymphoma as well. However, tests on dyes involve the oral administration of the tested substances; it remains unclear whether absorption through the skin really has the same negative effects.
Note that the coal tar dye named “2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitro phenol” is not readily absorbed through the skin, and is considered safe up to a 2% concentration.
Natural healing expert Dr. Andrew Weil recommends avoiding all chemical dyes and using henna instead. At the least, do not leave any dark hair dye (especially black shades) on the scalp longer than recommended in the instructions; and rinse the scalp very thoroughly.
Certainly, pregnant or lactating women and those trying to conceive a child should not use coal tar hair dyes.
Other Haircare Product Ingredients To Avoid
Many phenylenediamines should be used with caution, as they have been linked with cancer in some studies. In red or blonde hair dyes, the following substances cause cancer in animal testing: 4-amino-2-nitro phenol and 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine.
Phenolphthalein, a preservative found in many hair relaxants, has been shown to cause organ system toxicity and may cause cancer as well.
Temporary dyes that contain Acid Blue 168, Acid Violet 73, Solvent Brown 44, or Acid Orange 87 may cause health concerns, too. It is particularly difficult to avoid certain pigments, however, since they are often listed by other names on a label. In Europe, they may be listed only as a color index (CI) number. Don’t use temporary dyes while pregnant or lactating, just to be on the safe side.
Avoid buying such dyes in “gray market” stores that purchase so-called “diverted” or even counterfeit products and sell them at steep discounts. These products are often manufactured in countries with extremely lax labeling and safety regulations.
Health Hazards and Nail Products
Nail products are very volatile and contain many ingredients that can cause health problems with long-term or high-level exposure. Skip those with the following ingredients:
- Formaldehyde or formaldehyde-containing resins
- Ethanolamines, especially in combination with formaldehyde (can react to produce carcinogens that are absorbed through skin)
- Toluene
- Acetonitrile, also listed as methyl cyanide or methyl cyanide
Pregnant women should be particularly careful of this last ingredient, since birth defects have been linked to it. Acetonitrile is usually found in nail hardeners and artificial nail glue removers.
Possibly Hazardous Skin Care Ingredients and Fragrances
Salicylic acid and glycolic acids make terrific exfoliants, but have been linked to birth defects in some studies. Lactic acid also peels off the top layer of dead, dull skin cells; and can be used safely during pregnancy. Microdermabrasion treatments could also be substituted for chemical peeling agents, if the skin is not too sensitive.
Benzoyl peroxide, found in almost all acne creams, should also be eschewed by women who are pregnant or nursing. Hydroquinone, a good skin-lightening product, should be avoided during pregnancy. It has been shown to cause mutations in lab tests. Check labels for the common antibacterial agent Quaterarium-15, too; it causes birth defects in rats when administered orally. Moreover, it can release free formaldehyde.
Lastly, a class of compounds called “phthalates” may cause cell mutations. They are found in many perfumes and colognes at levels up to or exceeding 20,000 parts per million. Expectant mothers might wish to skip wearing fragrance altogether until the baby is born.
The above information is not an exhaustive list of possibly harmful cosmetic ingredients, but does provide consumers with a “bare bones” guide to choosing safer skin and hair care products. Pregnant women should consult their gynecologists and seek information about specialty lines such as Belli that try to completely eliminate all risky chemicals from their ingredient lists.
Readers of this article may also enjoy "How to Choose Safe Mineral Cosmetics" and "Sulfates in Cosmetics" in Suite 101's Home & Style section.
Sources
- Begoun, Paula, Don’t Go Shopping For Hair-Care Products Without Me, 2nd and 3rd editions, Beginning Press, 1995, 2004.
- Berg, Rona, Beauty: The New Basics, Workman Publishing, 2001.
- “ Cosmetics and Anti-Aging Products – What’s Safe During Pregnancy?” Women’s Health Care Topics.
- Weil, Dr. Andrew, Ask Dr. Weil, Ballantine Publishing Group, 1998.
- Winter, Ruth, A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Three Rivers Press, 2009.
- Zack, Lauren, “Toxins in Cosmetics & Personal Care Products,” manataka.org.
Amy Sillup - I have a B.S. in Chemistry from Delaware Valley College and a Juris Doctorate from the University of Pennsylvania. I have worked as a ...
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