For many, dry facial skin is an annoying and persistent problem. Though moisture levels in the skin are often determined by genetics, other factors may cause dry, flaky, overly tight and reddened complexions. Sun damage, cleansing with overly harsh products, and cold winter weather can strip the skin of moisture and oil. Moisturizing dehydrated skin is not difficult, however. Care of dry skin should be done lightly and effectively; correct technique and product choice are the keys to success.
Moisturizing Dry Skin: The Right Technique
Dermatologists and skincare experts alike often recommend a “two-layer” technique to take care of dry skin. After cleansing, spread a thin layer of moisturizer over dry areas. Wait a few moments for the first layer to absorb thoroughly, then apply a second thin layer. The dryer the skin, the richer the moisturizer can be; creams are often preferred to lotions simply because their consistency feels better on dehydrated skin.
For extremely parched skin that does not respond well to creams alone, the first layer applied may consist of a skin oil. Skin oils may be commercially prepared blends or pure oils; the latter type is most readily available at health food stores or even at the supermarket.
Dry skin with true acne (not acne caused by medications or overuse of cosmetics) is rare, but does occasionally occur. Use only jojoba facial oil for this skin type, as it seems to absorb more readily and has less chance of clogging pores. Try to avoid lanolin, cocoa butter, shea butter, and isopropyl myristate in moisturizer choices for dry skin with acne.
Best Skincare Ingredients for Dry Skin
The best ingredients for dry skin include humectants such as glycerin, urea, PCA or sodium PCA, and sorbitol, which draw moisture into the skin and help keep it sealed in and emollients like cocoa butter and shea butter, which lubricate the skin by coating it with mixtures of oils and fats.
Anti-inflammatory agents such as chamomile, glycyrrhetic acid, or comfrey are useful for dry skin that has a tendency to flush and develop semi-permanent patches of redness yet does not exhibit symptoms of rosacea.
Antioxidants like Vitamins C and E and cell-communicating ingredients such as ATP or niacinamide protect skin from damage and help it function better. Retinol (Vitamin A) has some mild Retin-A-like effects, but is only appropriate to use on non-sensitive skin, and should be present at a concentration of at least 0.15% to mimic the results of prescription retinoid cream.
Some ingredients like ceramides or cholesterol manage to perform several of the above tasks, making them particularly useful in any product designed to care for dry skin.
Moisturizer Addiction: When Skincare Goes Overboard
Some dry skin sufferers continuously load their skin with heavy, occlusive products; a phenomenon some skincare experts call “moisturizer addiction.” This ends up exacerbating the original problem. The lower layers of skin become lackadaisical about producing sebum and delivering water to the stratum corneum or outermost layer of skin. The skin gets even drier, and may appear dull and grayish. Worse, clogged pores and blemishes often become a brand-new problem. The consumer usually then runs for the drying acne products, and the whole frustrating cycle begins anew.
By following the above methods instead, the series of pointless saturate-then-desiccate steps can be halted, and the problem of dry skin solved in a more sensible way.
Sources
- Bark, Dr. Joseph P., Retin-A and Other Youth Miracles. Rocklin, CA: Prima Publishing and Communications, 1989.
- Hampton, Aubrey, What’s in Your Cosmetics? Tampa, FL: Organica Press, 1995.
- “Is Your Skin Addicted To Moisturizer?” New Beauty, Vol. 6, Issue 3, Summer-Fall 2010.
- O’Lenick, Jr., “Comparatively Speaking: Humectants vs. Emollients vs. Occlusive Agents.” Cosmetics & Toiletries, Sept. 2009.For specific product recommendations, readers may enjoy “Facial Oils and Moisturizers for Dry Skin Care” in Suite 101’s Home & Style section.
Amy Sillup - I have a B.S. in Chemistry from Delaware Valley College and a Juris Doctorate from the University of Pennsylvania. I have worked as a ...
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