Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has been used in skin care products for years. It functions as a preservative, an antioxidant, and is a necessary nutrient involved in the rebuilding of collagen. While it is important to consume adequate Vitamin C in the diet, a number of studies have shown that topically-applied Vitamin C is extremely beneficial to the skin. One of the most interesting developments is Vitamin C’s proven benefits in the reduction of dark spots and darkened patches on the face, a cosmetically distressing condition technically known as melasma.
What Causes Melasma?
No one knows for sure, but it is clear that estrogen and progesterone most likely play an important role in the condition. As many as three out of four pregnant women develop at least traces of darkened skin on the chin, cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. Because of this, melasma is often called chloasma: the mask of pregnancy. Since women who take birth control pills frequently get melasma, hormone levels assuredly play a part in the development of the condition. Sometimes the problem clears up when the baby is born or the Pill is discontinued. Others are not so fortunate.
Other possible causes of melasma include phototoxic chemicals in deodorants and perfumes, estrogen therapy during menopause, sun exposure, and the elusive “genetic factors.”
Epidermal versus Dermal Melasma
Vitamin C has been shown to be useful in the treatment of epidermal melasma, where the skin discoloration does not permeate all the way down into the dermis. Epidermal melasma consists of light brown discoloration, whereas dermal melasma is darker in color and may appear grayish rather than true brown.
Olive-skinned or black complexions have a tendency to get the deep dermal type of melasma; dermal melasma can only be treated by a dermatologist, and then often with only limited success. Epidermal melasma may be treated with over-the-counter preparations, including creams with hydroquinone, kojic acid, glycolic acid, and Vitamin C. Both types of melasma seem to respond best to combinations of treatments, such as the prescription-only tretinoin (Retin-A) and fluocinolone acetonide coupled with hydroquinone.
Vitamin C to Lighten Skin Discolorations
A 5% concentration of Vitamin C as ascorbic acid does not lighten skin quite as well as hydroquinone creams do; however, many people prefer treatment with Vitamin C; since hydroquinone can cause irritation, allergic reactions, and may completely remove the pigment from skin at as low a concentration as 2%. It has been banned in skin lighteners by the European Union due to these concerns.
Some sources claim that a 10% concentration of Vitamin C in its fat-soluble form of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate lightens skin very effectively, and suppresses the melanocytes or pigment cells from re-darkening the skin.
Vitamin C is acidic, and may cause some reddening or peeling of the skin; people with sensitive skin should check with a doctor before using products with high Vitamin C levels. Those consumers who wish to try to lighten epidermal melasma with Vitamin C at home can start with the following products:
- Ultraceuticals Ultra C Sheer Facial Creams (they come in 20% and 23% concentrations of ascorbic acid) or C-10 Serum
- Anew Avon Alternative Clearly-C 10% Vitamin C Serum
- Cellex-C Advanced-C Serum
- Jason Natural Cosmetics Hyper-C Serum
- Rose Joyce Cosmetics Vibran C
- Obagi 5% or 10% Vitamin C Serums
Always be sure purchase Vitamin C in opaque containers, as it is quickly broken down by ultraviolet light.
Lemon juice is sometimes recommended as a skin-bleaching agent by natural skincare aficionados, but it is likely to be too drying and irritating to use on the face; plus it will probably not be effective on large areas of skin. Another suggestion is oral consumption of Vitamin C tablets, which have been found effective in dermatitis and other skin problems. Check with a doctor before increasing ingestion of Vitamin C beyond Recommended Daily Allowances; although Vitamin C is readily excreted in urine, it can cause kidney problems if too much is consumed.
Final Tips for Coping with Melasma
If at-home treatments fail, consumer advocate Paula Begoun has recommended speaking to a dermatologist about a prescription cream called Skinmedica EpiQuin Micro, which contains two forms of Vitamin C in combination with retinol, 4% hydroquinone, and uses a time-released delivery system to minimize skin irritation.
Lastly, prior to going outdoors, melasma sufferers should always apply a good sunscreen containing zinc oxide, titanium oxide, avobenzone, (or Parsol 1789), helioplex, or Anthelios and an SPF of at least 15 (but the higher, the better). Even a few minutes of unprotected sun exposure can worsen existing melasma or cause a case that has disappeared to reoccur.
Sources
- Begoun, Paula (with Barron, Bryan), Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, 7th edition, Renton, WA: Beginning Press, 2008.
- Begoun, Paula, “Vitamin C,” cosmeticscop.com.
- Donahue, Peggy Jo, Relief from Chronic Skin Problems, New York: Dell Publishing, 1992.
- Gaby, Dr. Alan, “Vitamin C effective for melasma…,” January 2006.
- “ Melasma,” aad.org.
- “ Melasma,” DermnetNZ.
- Rendon, Marta I., “ Utilizing combination therapy to optimize melasma outcomes,” Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, Sept.-Oct. 2004.
Amy Sillup - I have a B.S. in Chemistry from Delaware Valley College and a Juris Doctorate from the University of Pennsylvania. I have worked as a ...
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